Vitamin C in Skin Care: An In-Depth Study of Innovative Ingredients

Introduction of Raz

Vitamin C is undoubtedly one of the most recognized active ingredients in modern skin care. Known for its unique antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties, this versatile vitamin has found its way into a variety of beauty products—from face masks to serums and creams. But as with everything in science and beauty, not all forms of vitamin C are created equal. Different derivatives and combinations can offer unique benefits and challenges in skin care regimens.

Navigating the complex landscape of ingredients can often be a challenge for the consumer, especially when it comes to understanding the underlying science. In this article, we will highlight the different aspects of vitamin C in skin care, from the different types and their stabilization methods to their effect on the skin. We will also focus on some advanced ingredients and complexes that enhance vitamin C's potential.

Specifically, we will explore the science behind Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, a particularly promising form of Vitamin C; X50 Pure White Solution, a revolutionary pigment control agent; SymBright® PLUS, a patented complex targeting pigmentation; as well as other important substances such as hyaluronic acid in different molecular weights, Centaurium EL, Carrot oil and 4 Herbs Extract OS.

Now that you have an idea of ​​what this article will cover, let's dive into the fascinating world of vitamin C in skin care.

Vitamin C or as the chemical name is Ethyl Ascorbic Acid:

Scientific In-Depth

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a synthetic form of vitamin C that stands as one of the most promising players in the vitamin C skin care world. It is the result of a chemical process that links ascorbic acid—the most direct form of vitamin C—with an ethyl group. This creates a compound with a high content of ascorbic acid (86.4%), which is significantly higher than the usual 50-60% in other derivatives. But what makes Ethyl Ascorbic Acid so special?

Stability and Absorption

Unlike traditional ascorbic acid, which is known for its instability and tendency to degrade, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is extremely stable. This is primarily due to the ethyl group, which acts as a protective shield and prevents oxidation. This is crucial for the product's lifespan and effectiveness over time.

Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect

Ethyl Ascorbic acid acts as a potent antioxidant that can neutralize free radicals and thus prevent cell damage. This is important in combating early signs of aging such as fine lines and wrinkles. In addition, it has anti-inflammatory properties that can soothe irritated skin and reduce redness.

Collagen production

One of the most striking properties of Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is its ability to increase the skin's collagen production. Collagen is the primary protein that gives the skin its firmness and elasticity. By stimulating collagen synthesis, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid helps maintain a youthful skin texture.

Skin Tone and Brightening Effect

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is also known for its ability to significantly improve skin tone. It does this by inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme essential to melanin production, which ultimately results in age spots and uneven skin tone. It shows a high lightening effect on the skin, making it ideal for treating hyperpigmentation.

Mechanistic Considerations

At a molecular level, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid works by donating electrons to free radicals, making them less reactive and therefore less harmful. This is a scientifically supported mechanism also found in other forms of vitamin C but with enhanced effectiveness in Ethyl Ascorbic Acid.

Overall, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid represents one of the most effective and versatile forms of Vitamin C in the skin care industry. With its improved stability, high concentration and multi-functional properties, it stands as a pioneer in today's advanced skin care.

But... and the biggest but is probably what we can combine this vitamin with, in order to increase the experience you get from a compound product with several active ingredients, so let me hold your attention for a moment longer and tell you about which ones I would think could be optimized a vitamin C product. On my journey and participation in the international fair InCosmetic, where a whole world of ingredient and agent manufacturers meet to show their latest innovative agents and compete for honours, glory and prizes, I have found these fantastic award-winning patented agents that will get each C -vitamin product to increase its effect and get you even closer to the skin you deserve.

X50 Pure White Solution InCosmetic GOLD winner 2023

X50 Pure White Solution is an avant-garde formulation that combines Lactic Acid and Glycolic Acid Copolymer to offer exfoliating benefits. This helps to remove dead skin cells and brighten the skin. In addition, it contains specially designed peptides such as Palmitoyl Sh-Octapeptide-24 Amide and Palmitoyl Sh-Tripeptide-5, which improve skin elasticity and reduce fine lines and wrinkles.

But that's not all. X50 Pure White Solution also contains the nanopeptide Norisoleucyl Sh-Nanopeptide-1, which inhibits the overproduction of pigment in the skin, and Polyvinyl Alcohol, which acts as a thickening agent. This makes it a highly effective agent for treating dark spots and UV-induced pigmentation.

SymBright® PLUS InCosmetic DIAMOND winner 2023

This patented complex combines Sclareolide and Niacinamide to prevent pigmentation disorders and protect the skin from visible light and pollution. It is particularly effective in treating dark spots and improves overall skin appearance by working on both skin tone and texture. Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is known for its skin whitening effect and ability to improve the skin's barrier function.


HyaluronPureHuman® InCosmetic SILVER winner 2022

Optimizing the Composition: A Multifaceted Tilgan Hyaluronic Acid is known for its ability to attract and retain moisture, but its capabilities extend much further than mere hydration.

Anti-inflammatory properties.

Hyaluronic acid also has potent anti-inflammatory properties. This is due to its unique ability to bind to water and form a gel-like substance that can protect against and soothe inflammation. This protective barrier can reduce redness and irritation, making hyaluronic acid ideal for use on sensitive or inflamed skin. This also contributes to faster regeneration and healing of the skin.

Promotes the Absorption of Other Active Ingredients. Hyaluronic acid acts as a 'guide' for other skin care ingredients. Once in the skin, it can create a more permeable surface that gives other active ingredients in your skin care routine better chances to penetrate deeper into the skin's layers. This means that products used in combination with hyaluronic acid can potentially be more effective.

Detailed Formulation
  • Low Molecular Weight (around 400 dKa): 0.2%. Penetrates deeply to provide intense hydration and inflammation control.
  • Medium Molecular Weight (around 1100 dKa): 0.2%. Balances deep penetration with superficial hydration while promoting the absorption of other ingredients.
  • High Molecular Weight (around 2000 dKa): 0.6%. Remains on the skin's surface as a protective barrier that locks in moisture.

HyaluronPureHuman® is not just a product; it is a holistic approach to skin care that utilizes the full potential of hyaluronic acid.

Additional Ingredients that I find interesting and promising.

Centaurium EL, Carrot Oil, and 4 Herbs Extract OS

These additional ingredients contribute their own unique benefits. Centaurium EL is known for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. Carrot oil, rich in provitamin A, is excellent for dry and flaky skin. 4 Herbs Extract OS combines Rosemary leaves, Angelica roots, Licorice roots, and Ginseng roots for a range of skin benefits.

Concluding remarks

Innovation in vitamin C and skin care never stands still. With the advances made in formulation and composition, we now have more ways than ever to treat skin's many challenges, from aging and pigmentation to dryness and inflammation.

So the next time you're looking for the perfect skincare product, it pays to look for ingredients that not only deliver what they promise, but also come with the latest in skincare technology.

The beauty expert Raz
Firefighter of the Year 'Danish Beauty Award 2023'